10 jours à Beyrouth

Un article amusant de mon amie Johanna dans The Guardian, sur notre Beyrouth bien-aimée...

SOURCE: http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/places/lebanon/beirut/profile.jsp

Your map of visited places in the world is just not complete if it doesn’t include Beirut. Once termed the Paris of the Middle East, it still has a lot to offer from the trendy designer ateliers to quaint shops where time has managed to stand still for a few decades. The City is not large so most places are easily accessible by service taxi or even on foot. Red plated service taxis are available all day and night by the thousands round Beirut where drivers beep their horns to attract passengers. One ‘service’ costs 2000 LBP per person and longer rides will cost you double service at 4000 LBP. If you manage to work out the city bus service, it only costs 1000 LBP per ride. Get a street map from your hotel and you can walk to many places round the city. The cornice has recently been repaved and makes an excellent walk by the sea from Down Town all the way round to Ramlet al Bayda bay, passing the Manara lighthouse, the old Beirut Luna Park and the famous rocks at Raouche on the way. Just past Raouche you come to the Grand Café overlooking the sea where you can stop for a drink and a relaxing game of back gammon while smoking a fruit flavoured ‘shisha’, as the hubbly bubbly is called locally.

The Lebanese use two currencies concurrently, the Lebanese Pound and the US Dollar. To avoid confusion it may be better to exchange all your money into Lebanese Pounds. Make sure you keep a lot of 1000 LBP notes for tips in cafes or for the man who changes your coal on the hubbly bubbly pipe.

There are always lots of activities going on in Beirut. One of them is the yearly Blom Beirut Marathon held in December and not to be missed. Make sure you register beforehand, either online or at the organisers’ premises at Biel, downtown Beirut. More information about the main marathon and other small marathons held during the year can be found on their site http://www.beirutmarathon.org/index.php

Wine enthusiasts are spoilt for choice by the selection of excellent Lebanese wines. You can take a trip to several of the wine and arak producing estates found in the Bekaa Valley. If you don’t want to join a tour bus, arrange a day trip with a private taxi. Maximum cost for a taxi for the day should not cost more than 150USD. Try Chateau Kefraya http://www.chateaukefraya.com/eindex.html, Chateau Ksara www.ksara.com.lb Massaya Wines http://www.massaya.com/. Free wine tasting is offered at the end of your tour.

Local food is excellent and generally very good value for money compared to European prices. The local mezze are to die for. Try the different varieties of hummous (crushed chick peas mixed with sesame paste, lemon juice, olive oil and garlic) such as hummus bi lahme, topped with spicy minced lamb, or the one sprinked with roasted pine nuts (Lebanese pine nuts are considered the best in the world for their rich flavour) or just plain hummous topped with excellent local olive oil. Baba ghannoush is not to be sniffed at, roasted aubergines crushed with lemon juice, tahini and olive oil. Chicken liver fried with pomegranate juice, fattoush salad, tabbouleh salad, fried spicy potatoes, steamed runner beans with olive oil and lemon juice, local strained yoghurt called labne served with olive oil and or with crushed garlic, cucumber with labne and mint, kibbeh (fried meat balls) bizry (fried white bait) are other mezze you should try. Don’t forget that these are usually ordered as starters. All mezze are served with local warm bread and are very filling but try not to miss the mixed meat grilled on skewers. A warm tea or coffee together with an argilla pipe compliment the end of these meals fit for kings.

The National Museum at Mathaf near the French Embassy is open from Tuesday to Sunday from 9 am to 5 pm and closed on Monday. This museum houses an archeological collection dating from prehistory to the Mamluk era. For more information visit the museum’s site at http://www.beirutnationalmuseum.com/e-histoire.htm

If you still have energy after a day out exploring try the local night life around Gemmayze, a street lined with restaurants and bars full of trendy locals dressed to kill in designer gear. Rue Monot, just off Sodeco Square is clubbing district where you can dance the night away till the early hours.

Local women are very well groomed and trendy. In Beirut, one is not seen dead without perfect nails. A manicure, pedicure and a trip to the hairdresser are a must. The beauty business in Beirut does well even in times of trouble or financial crisis as local women are very well groomed to say the least. Hotel salons can be pricey but small salons offer manicures, pedicures and hair brushing for a few dollars so when in Beirut, do as the Beirutis.

As much as it is tempting, don’t take photos of the soldiers or tanks found on most corners in Beirut because it’s not allowed. Don’t be too overwhelmed by their presence either. They are there for everyone's protection and are usually very polite and helpful should you need help with directions. It is all part of Beirut character and charm but do check with your embassy on the local security situation before your departure.

Johanna Mifsud